THE AGONY OF CHOICE

Funny how things change.

Twelve months ago, possibly even just six months ago, the concept of spending a weekend multi-Googling flights and accommodation options across two, or more, devices was something we “used to do” before the pandemic.

For the last few years, flanked by boxes of masks and various tubes, tests and sprays of virus protection, we’d find ourselves looking at well-thumbed Hong Kong hiking trail maps to see which one was suitably far back enough in our memories to embark on again.

We yearned to relive the frustrations of airline websites that would somehow crash just at that vital “Confirm Payment” click, the challenge of scheduling across various time zones and the lack of vacancies at those idyllic Insta-hotels with such snazzy websites.

But, that’s all back, and with a vengeance it seems. Airlines have rebounded by offering eye-wateringly expensive flights, and less of them. “Just think of all the money we saved during the pandemic, being stuck in Hong Kong,” we tell ourselves as we click away merrily, although there is quite a bit of truth to the savings (I further reassure myself). 

Seven weeks out of the country in the first three months of the year has made some amends for lost time. Two business trips to Tokyo has reignited the passion for Japan but the true love for that place is in its countryside.

And so it is that I’ve rolled the dice a little here. We’re heading to Kyushu this week, Japan’s third-largest main island and the most southerly, excluding Okinawa of course. Crucially, this isn’t Sake heartland and it’s my first trip into such a Sake desert since a visit to Yakushima, one of the Osumi Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture.

On that trip, many years back I might add, I was more excited about the amazing sweet variety of oranges grown there than this ancient old rice drink that now fascinates me. Those oranges make great cakes by the way, a bit like the iconic banana bread from Hana on Maui, Hawaii. I can understand why younger me didn’t want to leave.

More planning needed!

But back on topic and Fukuoka aside which I’ve seen before, spending time pillaging its great ramen, I’m heading to one of the least productive Sake regions in Japan.

Of Kyushu’s seven Prefectures, ignoring Fukuoka, the remaining six - Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima - come in 24th, 39th, 43rd, 18th, 45th and 46th respectively in the descending list of the Prefectures with the highest brewery count. We’re just visiting Kumamoto (43rd) and Kagoshima (46th) on this trip, really spartan Sake territory. You can see my point, I hope.

But it’s not all doom and gloom. In 2020 Kagoshima doubled its brewery tally! But don’t get excited, it doubled from one to a mere two when Nishi Shuzō, originally just a shochu producer, began brewing Sake too, joining Hamada Shuzō, maker of Sasshū Masamune, in the Prefecture. 

Of course I knew all this when I booked. Mercifully, Kyushu has plenty of alcohol production still, which is just as well as this is me traveling predominantly for leisure. What Kagoshima lacks in Sake prevalence it makes up for with Shochu, being home to over two hundred distilleries, fuelled by its massive annual sweet potato crop.

And herein lies the appeal. For a whole bunch of reasons, I’m really excited to be blowing well-earned dollars on the unfamiliar. For one, Kyushu is pretty undiscovered by yours truly. I’d love to return to a whole list of well-trodden cities and Prefectures but that’s unnecessary nostalgic indulgence. Time for something new.

Top of the Sake Pops (Source: National Tax Agency, "Overview of the Alcoholic Beverage Manufacturing Industry and the Alcoholic Beverage Wholesale Industry")

In fact, I’m quite keen to be away from the typical Sake tourism hotspots like Saijo and Nada, fun though they are to visit. There won’t be that pressure to taste and taste, clockwatching, to max out the experience, trying to out-strategise and speedwalk past fellow Sake pilgrims.

Wherever possible I’m only going to drink the immediate Prefecture’s Sakes. This will mean that it will be a real buzz to find it, visit it and taste it. Although if the availability isn’t good, which I can’t imagine, this notion will quickly deteriorate.

Another appeal to this trip is that in theory it will be quite easy to get a grip on a Prefectural Sake style or understand if there’s a lack of one. I’m purposely swerving any terroir references here but if I can get to taste most of Kumamoto’s eight Kura, I’m going to be confidently well-versed in the nuances of the region.

Lastly, for the sake of wordcount at least, the scarcity of breweries means I can dedicate time to really seeing the island, as much as five days will allow at least, and that’s special. To love Sake is to love Japan, and I’m well up for a full cultural immersion, whilst enjoying Sake responsibly.

As for enjoying the Shochu responsibly, I’ll get back to you in June.

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QUICK GLOSSARY:

Shuzo: Sake brewery. Often added to the company name e.g. Morikawa Shuzo
Kura: Sake Brewery

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LINKS:

For the top 47 countdown of brewery numbers, please follow this link: https://nlab.itmedia.co.jp/research/articles/783689/